When we talk about a small group of objects for personal use we can use different words like necessaire, set, compendium, kit, etc. Sometimes we can refer to these item’s containers so we can use etui, box, case, chest, trunk, coffer, casket and, when we speak of perfume, even odor cellar. We give the special name of “chatelaine” when some objects are tied together and hung by little chains, but this could be the subject of a next article.
Necessaire is a French word and apparently, it came in the English dictionary around 1800 only: for this reason I am going to give different names to the group of things I am showing, according to the period and to the use they were made for.
Please notice I am going to take into consideration only the set made with more than two items, otherwise I should also show all the double scent bottles and all the bottles joined with a vinaigrette.
My oldest set is a German silver compendium dating approximately 1720: heavy and solid (weighs 44.6 grams), it stands upright on a seal base that is not engraved; it unscrews into 7 pieces: at the bottom is the seal and then a needle case; next is a compartment with a hole in the top (I can’t open it) for the vinaigrette; this piece unscrews at the top for the sponge compartment; above that is a flat wax compartment and a double bobbin screws onto that; the thimble screws onto the top (about 14.4 mm diameter opening): it has diagonal bands with different engine-turning patterns and engravings decor. A very similar one is published in the book AROMATA (p. 98, fig. 114) by Meinghaus & Habrich, and it is an early and clever example of “all what a woman needs” can be put together in a wonderful and precious object.
France seems to have a special passion for “necessaires”, actually the great part of these kinds in my collection come from this country, all belonging to the 19th Century and shown in a possible chronological order.
This little gem dates to the turning of the 18th Century: in a silver mount real nutmeg, probably from Spain, are nested a tiny pair of scissors, a gilded silver thimble, a silver awl and a clear glass scent bottle with metal screw cap and inner glass stopper. 1070
Also to the first part of the Century, probably around 1830, is attributed this travel set in a wood box,probably later painted in white and lined in red brocade. It nests four scent bottles in red glass of slightly different sizes and silver caps (to recognize easily the various fragrances), an inkwell made in wood and covered in olive green satin with silver cap, a sand box made in the same way with perforated silver top and an engraved silver letter opener. The writing set/perfume combination is not accidental given the habit of sending perfumed letters.
Around 1860 the so-called French Palais Royal scent bottles were very fashionable as well as the bottles with Paris views, souvenirs of the grand Tour and we can still see many of them in the Antique market. Even so this green leather casket refined in bronze doree is an exceptional finding for its perfect conditions and its unique trilobed shape. The hinged cap opens to reveal an internal velour lined with a round mirror and a complete sewing set made of a pair of scissors, two gilded silver thimbles, two ivory awls and two metal bodkins. A scent bottle with hinged bronze cap and graphic of the Tuileries Palace plus inner ivory and metal stopper completes the ensemble. 1075
Another typical perfume bottle type of the same period is the so-called Vieux Paris, made in porcelain: square, cushion shaped containers of various sizes and decors with typical “umbrella” caps. Very often they are in pairs or more, but this set is quite rare. The very heavy base is in bronze while the tray is in wood, lined in red velvet, it contains four differently decorated porcelain bottles. Both the frame and the twisted handle are in bronze doree.
To the debut of the 20th Century belongs this Spanish Art Nouveau silver set of four triangular scent bottles. They are made in glass of different colours, with silver mount and caps; the trail of cylindrical shape has a decor of quivers with arrows and four tiny globular feet. The handle fully reflects the style of the time.
This travel set, is made as a wardrobe in painted wood decorated with glass stones. It opens with a tiny key to reveal a set of maquillage and sewing instruments and a standing flacon in cut clear glass with gold screw cap. It should be Italian or French, made around the end of 1800.
Same period and same purpose for this necessaire/travel set in red velvet including a clear glass scent bottle with stopper, a pair of scissors, a mirror and three bone awls; the box has a silver flip closure and a suspension ring. Surely Italia.
To conclude an unusual purse set in bakelite with guilloche enamels: the three containers – linked by a string- retain a little perfume vial, a powder compact with mirror and pouf and an empty lipstick by Roger & Gallet (Rouge Cerise) covered by a white tassel. This object could also be American.
